{"id":577,"date":"2013-01-21T16:51:13","date_gmt":"2013-01-21T15:51:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/joncu.roguenet.org\/swissblog\/?p=577"},"modified":"2021-09-21T22:52:06","modified_gmt":"2021-09-21T22:52:06","slug":"little-dornach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/2013\/01\/21\/little-dornach\/","title":{"rendered":"Little Dornach"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Winter is a mixed blessing.\u00a0 We rather enjoy the loveliness:\u00a0 snow here seems always to be soft and fluffy, clinging to trees, and the streets never seem to accumulate the dirty slush that I remember from St. Louis, I suppose because there are fewer cars and the snow often melts after a few days and then a few days later we get a fresh coating.<\/p>\n<p>Our friends Bruce and Susan, back in Lake Shastina, recommended to us the little town of Dornach which they had once visited.\u00a0 Yesterday the Dornach Symphony was to play at the Goetheanum there, so despite cold and snow we planned our day around that.<\/p>\n<p>A little history:\u00a0 Rudolf Steiner (who started anthroposophy and whose work is the inspiration behind Waldorf Schools and biodynamic farming) designed and built a wonderful structure in Dornach, The Goetheanum.\u00a0 Begun in 1913 and completed in 1919, this was the home of the Anthroposophical Society and its primary performance venue.\u00a0 That one was destroyed by arson Dec.31, 1922. A new one was built, this time mostly of concrete.\u00a0 \u00a0Due to its presence, many anthroposophists moved to Dornach where they built homes in the \u201cSteiner-style\u201d.\u00a0\u00a0 As you walk through the town, you go by what were once very unconventional (for Switzerland) houses.\u00a0 \u00a0While they do not seem unusual to the modern eye, they definitely look more interesting and friendly than more rigidly right-angular houses.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_595\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5456.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-595\" class=\"size-full wp-image-595\" title=\"Dornach homes\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5456.jpg\" alt=\"Dornach homes\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5456.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5456-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-595\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Unusually designed homes are common in Dornach.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The train ride from Gumligen to Dornach is 1 hour 40 minutes with 2 changes.\u00a0 For us, now familiar with both of the train stations where we needed to change (Basel and Bern) this was easy.\u00a0 We know to take something to read; we know we\u2019ll be warm and comfortable.\u00a0\u00a0 Arriving in Dornach and getting our bearings (all our destination points were programmed into our GPS), we headed up to see the Goetheanum.\u00a0 Up being the key word.\u00a0 A few slips on icy walkways, but no tumbles, and it was easily found.\u00a0 Outside it <em>is<\/em> imposing, but it seemed institutional with its massive concrete walls and mostly small windows.\u00a0 Inside, unusual angles and curves proved interesting and vari-colored walls warmed the look.\u00a0 We saw photos and models of the 1<sup>st<\/sup> Goetheanum and wondered why, as beautiful as it had been, Steiner\u2019s second design was so much less graceful.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_597\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF54641.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-597\" class=\"size-full wp-image-597\" title=\"Goetheanum Interior\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF54641.jpg\" alt=\"Goetheanum Interior\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF54641.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF54641-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-597\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Curves and angles in the Goetheanum Interior<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We then hiked further uphill to the ruins of Dorneck Castle.\u00a0\u00a0 As is common practice, it was built on a high and rocky promontory.\u00a0 Much of the exterior wall remains, though the inside is closed to visitors in winter.\u00a0 Footprints in the snow led us around the building, but we missed the same turning of the path as someone before us, and had to climb the hillside a bit.\u00a0 For me it felt like the 1<sup>st<\/sup> time in weeks I needed to use my whole body, hauling myself up with tree branches.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_598\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5483.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-598\" class=\"size-full wp-image-598\" title=\"Jon at Dornach Castle\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5483.jpg\" alt=\"Jon at Dorneck Castle\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5483.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5483-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-598\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sir Jon at Dornach Castle<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Continuing our walk, we skirted a horse farm, watched lots of sledders enjoying the hillsides, and made our way to the Hermitage, a landscaped park from 1785.\u00a0 We were a bit cold and tired by now, so we didn\u2019t try circumnavigating its 3 lakes in the snow or climbing to Schloss Birseck, a partially-restored palace.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_599\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/Sledding.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-599\" class=\"size-full wp-image-599\" title=\"Sledding in Dornach\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/Sledding.jpg\" alt=\"Sledding in Dornach\" width=\"600\" height=\"339\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/Sledding.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/Sledding-300x170.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-599\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sledders shared our trail in Dornach<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Our last stop was the Arlesheim Cathedral.\u00a0 Erected in a mere 2.5 years, it has a simple enough exterior, but the inside is pure Baroque candy:\u00a0 dozens of plaster cupids and flower garlands, more pink than one expects in a church, carved choir stalls, and marble altars and pillars.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_600\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5530.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-600\" title=\"Arlesheim Cathedral\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5530.jpg\" alt=\"Arlesheim Cathedral\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5530.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5530-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-600\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cupids were plentiful in Arlesheim Cathedral<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_601\" style=\"width: 460px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5519.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-601\" class=\"size-full wp-image-601\" title=\"Carved choir stalls in Arlesheim Cathedral\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5519.jpg\" alt=\"Carved choir stalls in Arlesheim Cathedral\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5519.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2013\/01\/DSCF5519-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-601\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carved choir stalls in Arlesheim Cathedral<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Proceeding again to the Goetheanum, we paused in their caf\u00e9 for sustenance, and then heard the delightfully well-executed concert by the Dornach Symphony.<\/p>\n<p>With more than half an hour until the next train, we extended our day out with dinner in the only available restaurant, The Pergola.\u00a0 \u00a0We\u2019ve been in Switzerland a while now and we think we\u2019re used to the high prices, but a cup of cooked pasta with a little sauce for 22 Francs?\u00a0 Worse than Bern!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Winter is a mixed blessing.\u00a0 We rather enjoy the loveliness:\u00a0 snow here seems always to be soft and fluffy, clinging to trees, and the streets never seem to accumulate the dirty slush that I remember from St. Louis, I suppose &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/2013\/01\/21\/little-dornach\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-577","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-switzerland"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/577","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=577"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/577\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1495,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/577\/revisions\/1495"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=577"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=577"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jmcw.blog\/swissblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=577"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}